English Ivy (Hedera helix): Everything You Need to Know

English ivy is a classic trailing/climbing houseplant with glossy, lobed leaves and wiry vines that root along the stem. Indoors it’s elegant on shelves, mantels, and plant stands; outdoors it can cover trellises and fences fast. It’s forgiving, cool-temperature tolerant, and easy to multiply—perfect for gifting or selling starts.

A Little History Lesson

Native to Europe and parts of western Asia, Hedera helix has been grown for centuries for evergreen coverage and symbolism (fidelity, friendship). In many regions of North America it’s considered invasive outdoors—so enjoy it in pots and don’t let berries spread.

Where It’ll Grow

• Indoors: Thrives in bright, indirect light; tolerates low light but grows slower.
• Outdoors (pots/porch): Part shade to bright shade; morning sun is fine. Avoid baking afternoon sun on hot decks.
• Temperature: 50–70°F is ideal. Enjoys cooler nights. Keep away from hot air vents.
• Humidity: Average home humidity is ok; a little extra humidity (bathroom, pebble tray) keeps edges from crisping.

Light & Placement (with hours)

• Best: 4–8 hours of bright, indirect light daily (east window; 2–5 ft back from a south/west window; sheer curtain helps).
• Can tolerate: Lower light (2–4 hours bright ambient) with slower growth and longer internodes.
• Direct sun: Gentle morning sun (1–2 hours) is fine; avoid strong midday/afternoon sun that scorches leaves.
• Grow lights: 10–12 hours/day under LED shop light or plant light if your room is dim.

Pot, Soil & Your Bushel Basket

• Soil mix: Standard indoor potting mix lightened with perlite or bark (about 2:1). Drainage is non-negotiable.
• Container: Use a nursery pot with drainage holes and drop it into the heirloom bushel basket as a cachepot. Line the basket with plastic or a saucer to protect wood; never let water pool in the basket.
• Weight tips: To keep the big planter lighter, place an upside-down nursery pot in the bottom of the cachepot and set your planted pot on top.
• Support: Ivy will climb a mini obelisk, hoop, or moss pole, or trail beautifully off the sides.

Watering & Feeding

• Water when the top 1 inch of soil is dry. Soak thoroughly; empty the saucer.
• In winter or low light, let it dry a bit more between waterings.
• Feed monthly in spring–summer with a balanced houseplant fertilizer at ½ strength. Skip feeding in winter.

Seasonal Care

• Spring–Summer: Long vines—pinch tips to encourage bushiness; great time to take cuttings.
• Fall: Growth slows; reduce water/fertilizer.
• Winter: Cooler rooms are fine (down to ~50°F). Keep away from hot, dry vents to prevent spider mites.

Propagation (Fast & Easy)

Stem Cuttings

1. Snip 4–6 in. tips with 2–3 nodes. Remove the bottom leaves.
2. Water method: Place in a jar; change water weekly. Pot up when roots are 1–2 in. long (2–4 weeks).
3. Soil method: Dip cut end in rooting hormone (optional); plant nodes just below the surface; keep evenly moist and humid (clear bag tent).
4. Plant several cuttings per pot for instant fullness.

Layering

Coil a vine onto the soil surface and pin nodes down with a hairpin. Once rooted, snip the new baby free and pot it up.

Pests, Problems & Critters

• Indoors: Spider mites (most common in dry air), aphids, mealybugs, scale. Rinse in the shower, then treat with insecticidal soap or neem weekly until gone. Boost humidity to deter mites.
• Disease: Root rot from overwatering; let topsoil dry and improve drainage. Remove any soggy stems.
• Outdoors/yard: Generally deer-resistant; groundhogs, raccoons, possums don’t usually bother ivy. Dense ivy can harbor rodents—keep it trimmed and off structures.
• Invasiveness caution: English ivy is invasive in many US regions. Keep it in containers, prune regularly, and remove flowers/berries so birds can’t spread seed.

Toxicity & Safety

• Pets: Toxic to cats and dogs if chewed/ingested (GI upset, drooling, vomiting). Place out of reach and trim trailing vines.
• People: Berries are poisonous; sap may irritate skin—wear gloves when pruning.
• Kid/pet-safer trailing alternatives: Spider plant, Swedish “ivy” (Plectranthus—not a true ivy).

Fun Facts & Folklore

• Young ivy (juvenile form) climbs; old ivy (adult form) stops climbing and flowers/berries—another reason to clip off blooms indoors.
• Cool rooms make ivy happiest—few houseplants actually like 55–60°F nights, but ivy does.

Tips From the Porch

• Dust leaves with a damp cloth so they can breathe and photosynthesize fully.
• Rotate the pot monthly for even growth; give vines a hoop/trellis for a tidy, vertical look.
• If a vine gets bare at the base, chop and re-root the tips; plant them back into the same pot for a fuller plant.

Bottom Line

English ivy is a cool-loving, forgiving houseplant that trails or climbs, propagates easily, and looks gorgeous in heirloom containers. Give it 4–8 hours of bright, indirect light, keep the soil lightly moist (never soggy), and root a handful of tip cuttings each spring—you’ll have endless plants to keep, gift, or sell.

Marigolds: Everything You Need to Know

Marigolds are the bright, cheerful workhorses of the garden. Known for their golden, orange, and red blooms, these hardy annuals bring color, fragrance, and pest-fighting power to flower beds, borders, and containers. They’re often one of the first flowers kids plant, thanks to their easy germination and quick growth.

The name “marigold” comes from “Mary’s Gold,” once used in religious ceremonies. Today, they’re beloved as one of the easiest, most rewarding flowers to grow on any porch or patio.

A Little History Lesson

Marigolds originated in the Americas, especially Mexico and Central America, where they were sacred to the Aztecs. Spanish explorers carried seeds back to Europe in the 1500s, and they quickly became popular across the world. In Mexico, marigolds are still deeply tied to Día de los Muertos celebrations, symbolizing the sun and guiding spirits with their bright color and strong scent.

Where They’ll Grow

• USDA Zones: Grown as annuals everywhere, but they thrive best in zones 2–11 during the warm season.
• Light: Full sun for best flowering (6–8 hours daily).
• Soil: Well-draining, average garden soil. They aren’t fussy and tolerate poor soils as long as drainage is good.
• Containers: Perfect in pots, window boxes, and porch planters. They mix well with herbs and vegetables.

Seasonal Care

• Spring: Start seeds indoors 4–6 weeks before the last frost, or sow directly outdoors once soil warms. Transplant seedlings after frost danger has passed.
• Summer: Deadhead spent blooms to keep flowers coming. Provide steady water, but don’t let them sit in soggy soil.
• Fall: They’ll keep blooming until frost takes them down. Gather seeds for next year before the first freeze.
• Winter: Marigolds are annuals and won’t survive frost, but their seeds store well for the next season.

Propagation

Marigolds are easiest to propagate from seed, but you can also start them from cuttings.

From Seed

1. Collect dried seed heads after the flowers fade and turn brown.
2. Gently pull out the long, black-and-white seeds inside.
3. Store seeds in a cool, dry envelope or jar until spring.
4. Plant 1/4" deep in warm soil or seed trays. Germination takes 5–7 days.

From Cuttings (Less Common)

• Take 4–6 inch green stem cuttings before flowering.
• Strip lower leaves and place in moist soil or water until roots form.
• Transplant into pots or garden beds.

Fun Facts & Folklore

• Marigolds repel common garden pests like aphids and nematodes.
• In India, marigolds are used in wedding garlands and religious festivals.
• The petals are edible and sometimes called “poor man’s saffron” when used to color rice or soups.
• In Mexico, marigolds (cempasúchil) are the “flower of the dead,” guiding loved ones home with their fragrance.

Tips From the Porch

• Plant marigolds around tomatoes, peppers, and beans to help deter pests.
• Mix colors — bright oranges, sunny yellows, and fiery reds look stunning in porch pots.
• Pinch back young plants to encourage bushier growth and more blooms.
• Water at the base of the plant to avoid mildew on leaves.

Bottom Line

Marigolds are one of the easiest and most rewarding flowers you can grow. They brighten porches and patios, protect vegetable gardens, and bring cultural and historical richness to your home. With their cheerful blooms and simple care, they’re a must-have for any homestead garden.

Hen and Chicks (a.k.a. Cat and Kittens): Everything You Need to Know

Hen and Chicks (sometimes called Cat and Kittens, because folks just can’t resist making it cute) is the common name for Sempervivum, a hardy succulent that grows in tight rosettes. The big rosette is the “hen” (or “cat”), and the little ones that sprout around it are the “chicks” (or “kittens”).

The name Sempervivum means “always living” — which tells you everything you need to know. These little suckers survive where most plants give up. They’ll grow in rocky cracks, shallow pots, old strawberry jars, and even between bricks in the patio.

A Little History Lesson

Hen and Chicks have been around for centuries. They’re native to the mountains of southern Europe — the Alps, the Pyrenees, and all those places with cold winters and rocky soil. Old European folklore claimed planting them on the roof would protect your house from lightning strikes. Romans planted them on tiles and rooftops, calling them “houseleeks.” They’re still popular in rock gardens today, especially because they can handle both hot sun and cold winters without flinching.

Where They’ll Grow

• USDA Zones: 3–8 (they’ll laugh at snow and ice).
• Light: Full sun is best — the more sun, the more vibrant the colors.
• Soil: Poor, gritty, sandy soil. Rich, soggy dirt is the fast lane to root rot.
• Containers: Perfect in shallow pots, rock walls, strawberry jars, or even an old boot.

Seasonal Care

• Spring & Summer: Active growing season. Water when soil dries out, give full sun, and watch the chicks pop up.
• Fall: Leaves may tighten up, and colors deepen into reds or purples. Normal!
• Winter: They go semi-dormant, hunkering down into little buds. Leave them outside (they’re tougher than you think), but make sure the pot drains well so the roots don’t freeze in standing water.

Propagation

This plant practically does the work for you. But here’s how to speed it up:

Offsets (Chicks)

1. Wait until spring or early summer.
2. Gently tug a chick away from the hen (it usually already has baby roots).
3. Plant it in well-draining soil — sandy cactus mix works great.
4. Water lightly until established.

Encourage More Chicks

• Give them lots of sun (6+ hours if outdoors).
• Use sandy, well-draining soil — they don’t like rich, wet dirt.
• Avoid overwatering — let soil dry between waterings.
• A light feeding in spring can encourage more chicks.

Fun Facts & Folklore

• Sempervivum = “Always Living.”
• Each hen eventually blooms once (a tall, starry flower stalk), then dies — but not before leaving behind a whole brood of chicks.
• In old Europe, they were considered protective plants. Today, they’re just the succulent you can’t kill.

Tips From the Porch

• Got them in plain potting soil? Mix in some sand, grit, or perlite next time to keep them happier.
• Don’t baby them with fertilizer — they thrive on neglect.
• Use them as “filler” in pots with other succulents, or give them their own space to sprawl.
• Divide chicks every spring and pot them up. Pretty soon, you’ll have enough to share — or sell.

Bottom Line

Hen and Chicks are the homesteader’s dream plant: tough, self-propagating, decorative, and low-maintenance. Give them sun and decent drainage, and they’ll give you a whole army of little rosettes year after year.

They’re proof that sometimes the simplest things — like a stubborn succulent on the porch — can be the most rewarding.